The 1980s was the period of the expansion for the brand. The first boutique bearing the Sergio Rossi name opened in Ancona, soon followed by Turin, Florence, Rome, Brussels, New York, Los Angeles, and London. An average of two boutiques were opened each year between 1980 and 1999.

At the same time, the brand became closely linked to some of the leading design houses in the fashion industry, producing shoes for the collections of Dolce & Gabbana (from 1989 to 1999) or Azzedine Alaïa for example.