FALL/WINTER 2013-14, THE SHOE: PURE SHAPE, BASIC STRUCTURE
The Sergio Rossi Fall-Winter 2013-14 collection ideated by creative director Francesco Russo finds inspiration in one forceful idea: the exaltation of the shoe as an expression of architectonic design. It’s a tribute to world-class Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, who through his work has forged a union between architectural vision and engineering principles.
Accordingly, the Sergio Rossi shoe becomes for all practical purposes a micro building where the architectural factor emerges conceptually as the successful pursuit of a design project, not as a group of geometric shapes and consequently complete constructions.
Basic structure regains its true value.
Distinctive shapes and colors give way to a set of structural components that assume the dominant role in that they are – and shall remain – what ultimately define the shoe.
Both striking example and signature item of the new Sergio Rossi collection is a spike-heel pump with set steel support cage (gem-set mode) between heel and sole.
While surely a decorative feature, this cage is also a keenly functional element since, no differently from the metal frameworks essential to building construction, it supports the delicate structure of the shoe.
In line with the concept of simplicity or pure clean design underpinning the collection, the palette contains black, white and nude hues only. As for materials, the use of python in addition to classic leather and suede depends on this snakeskin’s particular check-like texture, which enhances and highlights the graphic effects and underscores the geometric gaps of the shoe.
Lastly, pink gold and steel – metals with an effective connection to the realm of architecture – top off the collection’s mood to perfection.