Sergio Rossi Men’s Collection Spring/Summer 2013: Re-drawing elegance
Recontexualizing tradition to create a new balance, Francesco Russo, the Creative Director of Sergio Rossi, continues to explore the aesthetics of modern man.
The Spring/Summer 2013 collection is based on a strong study of function and proportion. Francesco Russo has edited the strict structural frames of reference that have defined the history of men’s footwear through imperceptible yet positive changes. Soles are slightly thinner and the silhouettes are subtly tapered.
The essence of the collection is classic British style. Time-honored traditional elements of men’s footwear are featured on iconic styles embellished with hand-stitching and double Blake stitching.
The Sergio Rossi man expresses intelligent, dynamic masculinity, which is why he can be bold yet understated, nonchalantly passing from an absolutely elegant business look to a more informal, casual style for leisure.
There is a sense of calm precision in the shoes made of bonded leather that are assembled using ancient belt-making techniques. This technique is evident in the Weston boot with heat-sealed raw cut edges: thanks to its seamless construction, the boot is soft and deconstructed.
A subtle patina of the past envelopes a few styles in the collection. The tubular moccasin is a stand out thanks to its vague seventies feel and its soft and slightly vintage look.
The classic derby shoe is given an unusual twist: the color on the toe and heel has been partially removed and buffed with a contrasting shade to create beautiful vintage-look nuances.
The vintage leitmotif – which balances nostalgia and a new concept of luxury – also strongly emerges in the perforated derby shoe and the Greek-style sandal. Both have a rough, unfinished look and faded antiqued nuances.
The breakthrough comes with rebel styles covered in metal studs of the latest generation. The sporty brogue replaces its classic holes for laces with oversized metal eyelets, which are also used on the summer slipper energized by an unexpected fluo stripe on its sole.
Sporty models confirm a definite clash between past and future. The classic driving moccasin with hand-stitched detailing turns into an unusual technical hybrid shoe when combined with a two-tone high-top sneaker.
Once again, Italian artisan style places the accent on techniques that emphasize the silhouette of each shoe.