Sergio Rossi Women’s Fall / Winter 2012-13 Collection

Body and object meld without distinction: shoe, foot, thigh, boot, chest, necklace, bust. For the past few seasons, Francesco Russo’s collections have been traveling from the legs to the neck with the “Skin to Skin” project: bodices/breastplates/necklaces made of intertwining leather, metal links, and horn. Powerful objects, they are primitive yet futuristic amulets.

These fragments of armor/accessories express his concept of shoes as desirable objects that are not sculptures but vibrant extensions of our sensuality and an integral part of our being. Now these shoes have been transformed into barbaric elements with production techniques and leathers that seem prehistoric, such as pieces of nappa leather held together with iron hooks. In this universe, two very different sides of simplicity – contemporary minimalism and a primitive mood – coexist in a way that only creative flair and artisan craftsmanship can transform into glamour. In a sequence where everything stands out and dazzles, python, lizard, ostrich foot, suede, and nappa leather are combined in monochrome shades dominated by black – the color of design – that accentuates and emphasizes every line and texture, underlining the concept of transformation that spans the entire Sergio Rossi universe.

Francesco Russo creates mechanisms that transform dreams and desires into reality. For him, women reveal their true essence, exaggerating their most intimate gestures, playful spirit, and seductiveness through movements in the light of day and in the shadow of darkness, appearing and sometimes vanishing. The tableau vivant filmed by Luca Guadagnino, the director of “I Am Love”, captures the essence of this collection. A body enters and exits the dense, carnal darkness, waiting to be transformed into magnetic energy. Like a mutant being, it wears (and transforms into) striking leather bodices, skin-tight thigh-high boots, and gold chains. She is ready for anything, especially for seduction and pleasure. Initially appearing in fragments, like in a dream, the body becomes whole, strong, and unique.

The key is not about reducing everything to a few shapes and details, a few materials, and one silhouette, but to give desire — all our desires — as many shapes and paths as possible and to catalyze every sign of our appetites. Francesco Russo and Luca Guadagnino collaborated on the visual narrative of this just under three minute film. Diane Dondoe plays the lead seated in her “Mixo” Michel Haillard throne, in a silent role where moving images speak for themselves and Sergio Rossi’s “Skin to Skin” pieces from the Fall / Winter 2012-13 collection take center stage.

Produced by Francesca Fiocchi, Fot Frenesy Film Company and Blow Up Film. With the participation of Yorick Le Saux, cinematography; Ferdinando Cito Filomarino, editing; Camillo Dal Forno, soundtrack.

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